“I know that we cannot visibly see each other but...”

Last week of work before round 2 of holidays begin!

This week we took all the classes from Moriah Centre on a little school trip to Matata; they learned about the Post Office, bank, clinic, Police Station, bought some treats from the shop and had a walk around the dam to see the ducks. It was the first time they had ever posted a letter in a post box and the first time they’d ever been shut in the dingy outside prison cells at the back of the Police Station (and the last time I hope!)
We had such a great time seeing them outside of the preschool, interacting with people, and learning about just how much/or how little they know about the world around them. When I was driving the oldest class to Matata I was so shocked (and happy) when they pointed to things outside the windows and were referring to them in English, the cutest thing was every time we went over a speed bump they all said “up down, up down!”

Coming back from Injabulo one day this week gave me my first African public transport horror story; a woman had a miscarriage on the kombi. One moment she was fine and the next she stood up clutching her stomach and there was blood all over where she had been sitting, the back of her skirt was saturated red and on her way out of the kombi she trailed blood all along the walls. It was terrible. I felt so sorry for her because she was only young AND was basically chucked off the kombi; she had also desperately tried to clean up the mess herself by wiping it up with a sanitary pad, but they just wanted her off. This story also adds to my questions of just how hygienic some kombis are because once she had left a Gogo (Grandmother) dry wiped the blood up with some tissues and then someone else took her seat. Gross.

Friday this week was a Swazi public holiday; aka the King’s Birthday! He had a huge celebration at Siteki Sports Ground and everyone was welcome to go. We set off early in the morning with high hopes for the day; I even packed my sun cream and sunglasses because I knew that we’d be outside all day and I would fry like a chicken. I needn’t have worried. What I really needed was a set of thermals and a ski jacket. Siteki was FREEZING COLD; there was so much fog that you couldn’t even see the seats at the other side of the stadium, barely 100m away. What made matters worse is that I was wearing flip flops, a knee length skirt, a strappy top and a ¾ length cardigan... definitely underdressed for the weather.
The entertainment did an okay job at distracting me from my chattering teeth and blue feet, there were choirs, traditional dancers and majorettes doing rifle sequences. It was brilliant to see as the only style of traditional dance we had been before was Ummiso, and luckily this time we got to see the type of dancing and clothes worn at the famous Reed Dance (Swaziland’s most famous event, and one that us volunteers never get to see as it happens after our departure and before the new vols come out), I felt so sorry for the poor girls as they were topless in the zero temperatures and after they had finished they all but sprinted across the stadium to throw on as many clothes as they could find!
In typical Swazi style the King arrived one hour late; by this time I had already been sat freezing cold for over 3 hours, you could hardly even see him arrive due to the fog and he had to do a walk around of the stadium so that everyone could get a glimpse. So for about 10 seconds before he disappeared into the fog again the King waved vaguely in the direction of the stands that we were seated on. All the Swazi people were going absolutely wild and screaming for the King, how they had that much energy left after being sat frozen for hours on end I do not know.
We sat through his speech for a respectable amount of time before deciding that it was definitely time to leave for somewhere warmer, so swaddled in traditional Swazi dress kindly lent to be by the Aunties from Sisekelo who we were sitting with I made my way to the bus rank with Ashley, who was luckily dressed more warmly than I was. Lots of people stared at the white girl shivering in the Swazi sheets and the majority of them laughed as well, but I was past caring. I don’t think I’ve ever been this cold in Africa!

Over the weekend we stayed with Kathy and Richard in Manzini so that they could drop us off at the bus rank early on Sunday morning to catch our kombi to Johannesburg! The journey wasn’t too bad apart from me spending most of the time staring at my backpack perched in the trailer in a position that made it incredibly easy for it to be stolen. Once again we found ourselves in the infamous Park Central Station, Johannesburg’s bus rank, I know I’ve said it before and I will say it again, this is the dodgiest and scariest place that I’ve ever been. Every second I feel like I’m about to me mugged, stabbed or dragged off into a world of sex trafficking. We had to spend 5 hours in this place. When 6:00pm rolled around and it was time to get on our Intercape bus I couldn’t be happier, the next 16 hours of bus journey were in guaranteed safety and that’s exactly what I needed after 5 hours in Park Central Station.

Holiday trip ‘Round 2’... commence!

Kate xx

Fear is Temporary, Regret is Forever

When you’re stood in a shower alternately washing yourself with shower gel and 3 pairs of pants with soap powder, you get the sudden realisation that you should make an attempt to wash your clothes before you run out completely.

So, we’ve hit the Baz Bus’s compulsory stop over destination – Port Elizabeth. Apparently there’s not really anything special to see here, so we only spent the night before moving onto somewhere more exciting. However in our backpackers we met another Project Trust volunteer; Gabriel, from York and he’s on a township project. So the planned early night went straight out of the window and we stayed up until 4:30 chatting about our projects and travels – we felt sorry for Gabriel who had to get up for the Baz Bus at 7:00am, but we had a great night.

Jeffries Bay

We make our own way to J-bay on public kombi’s because the Baz Bus are rip-off merchants and don’t have any room for us. Even though we paid extortionate amounts of money for our tickets and we called them up to book our places MUCH earlier than the advertised ‘72 hours in advance so you’re not disappointed’. We hate the Baz Bus.
Anyway, Baz Bus hating aside Jeffries Bay is amazing! Our backpackers ‘Cristal Cove’ is right on the beach and there are loads of surfers walking around. It’s exactly like the Boardmasters Festival at Cornwall... apart from the weather is much better!
We have a very mature 45 minute stroll along the beach for some calamari, and on the way back we have a swim in the once again warm ocean. I don’t know what happened between Coffee Bay and Jeffries Bay, but the water at East London was FREEZING – Indian Ocean, waddup wid dat?

Turns out the Polokwane girls and Gabriel are also in J-bay, so we walk to their backpackers and meet up with them for the evening. We head to this place called ‘The Mexican’ for a live music night; it takes me a good 45 minutes to get served at the bar because the place is so packed. I make the logical decision of stocking up on drink and buy myself a few bottles so I don’t have to go back to the bar for a while. You wait so long to get served you actually sober up in between drinks! It’s probably a smart ploy to make money, everyone has to drink more than usual to get drunk. Touché.

Storms River

Turned out to be an unplanned stop! Because Baz Bus are rubbish (we hate the Baz Bus), they didn’t have room to take us the last 40km from Storms River to our backpackers, Wild Spirit Lodge in The Crags. Therefore we were thrown off the Baz Bus into the heat, dirt and unknown... backpacks and all. Alright, maybe I’m exaggerating, we were dropped off at Dijembe backpackers in Storms River. The staff were all really lovely, gave us free tea and coffee and kindly let us stay the night.

Is this the prime place to chill, or is this the prime place to chill?

We bump into the Polokwane girls AGAIN, this time is does come as a surprise because we knew that they were staying in Plettenburg Bay (which is further down the coast from Storms River). We decided to go tubing and heard familiar screams on our way down to the river... Turns out the Baz Bus royally screwed them over and they couldn’t get on it at all, so they had to hire a car to continue their travelling. So with their new found freedom they travelled back up the coast to Storms River to do the very popular activity that is tubing! Tubing is great fun, you basically sit in a sturdy rubber ring and travel down a river going over rapids, floating calmly and climbing up rock faces to jump into deep pools. It was exhausting work on my arms as we were on the river for a good 3 hours or so, but it was definitely worth it.

Our instructors told us that the last cliff jump was 12m high, and that only 14 girls had ever done it, so obviously I was well up for increasing that total. I’d done coasteering in Newquay, Cornwall before and had jumped from higher places so I was a little bit overconfident.
On the way down all the jumps that we did were a little bit hairy, the 8m jump was set back into the cliff so you had to jump at least 1m forwards to clear the rocks below and land safely in the water. This was a little nerve wracking, however I didn’t expect the 12m to be quite as dangerous! I am telling you, the ‘jumps’ that we did on that river would never be health and safety accepted in the UK, if you put one foot wrong or didn’t push off hard enough you would have kissed rock-face.

I’m not going to lie, standing on that tiny outcrop I was s****ing my pants, I’ve never been so scared in my life. Even when I get scared it’s not normally from doing activities like this, I love this stuff! I couldn’t work out what was happening to me, every time I pushed forwards to jump my foot wouldn’t move, it was frozen to the rock. My heart was pounding and I was looking sceptically at the 2m rock outcrop that I would need to clear in order to survive the jump. My hands were shaking, my voice was shaking and I’ve been told that I was stood there for half an hour.
I didn’t jump. Excuse the language, but all that can be said is that I pussied out. Big time. I’ve never been angrier at myself for not doing something. Now I was just an unknown statistic on the side of the girls who didn’t have the guts to do the jump.
The worst thing was that Ashley screamed like a little girl on the 8m, but she still managed to jump the 12m, now 15 girls are mental enough to hurl themselves off that cliff – good on Ashley!

The Crags 

We finally get to Wild Spirit backpackers and it is again, beautiful. So far for me this backpackers and Amapondo Backpackers at Port St John’s are in tied 1^st position when it comes to the most amazing locations! The views are gorgeous, we are surrounded by thick forest and the mountains fade out on the horizon as far as the eye can see. Looking out over our balcony from our dorm room there’s a sea of green below us, and within 20 minutes you can walk in either of 3 directions to get to a waterfall, the magical forest or the ‘Big Tree’.

Climbing a big tree, before 'The' Big Tree!

Friday 21^st December brings the dreaded Apocalypse, so I go to reception before breakfast and book myself in for a bungee jump at 5pm. Why not.
All 4 of us go on the short hike it takes to get to the waterfall and find ourselves in a place written about in story books; we cross the rickety wooden bridge over a glimmering plunge pool and climb up to where the waterfall is cascading down the rocks. The water is freezing cold, but it’s too stunning to not swim in!
After the waterfall we walk to a farm stall for lunch and find the best deal ever; fresh milk for E5.50 per litre, that’s about 40p. Fresh milk in Africa is a rarity for us as we get given UHT milk, nasty long life rubbish. So we empty out our 1litre bottle of drinking water onto the ground and fill it up with the fresh, non-UHT, organic and cooled milk. Words cannot describe how much we loved that milk, however we did have to buy another litre before leaving!

THE BUNGEE

There’s only one word for it, it was SICKKKK! Driving to Bloukrans Bridge I was pretty nervous, but as soon as I was there and had on my harness I was ready to go. The guy harnessing me up even asked me how many bungee jumps I had done before, and when I told him this was my first one he seemed surprised and commented on how calm and chilled I seemed to be – so at least I wasn’t a nervous trembling wreck like I had been on the cliff jump the day before.
Once my group got to the bridge it was even better; we walked along a covered grate walk over the valley (so there were some amazing views) to the middle of the bridge, I thought I had just walked into a club. Obviously it wasn’t dark dingy and foggy but there was blaring music and all the guys who worked there were dancing about all over; firstly they were clubbing and secondly they were working at a bungee site. It was such a good atmosphere and got you pumped up and ready to go! Unfortunately I didn’t jump to a brilliant tune, but that didn’t take away from the experience.

After my freak out on the cliff jump I wasn’t too sure how I would feel once I got to the edge of the bridge... Luckily the guys give you a pretty swift count down so you barely have time to think about what you’re doing! ‘5,4,3,2,1 BUNGEE’ gets you to jump pretty quickly, and if you don’t jump they push you, so I knew that one way or another I was going headfirst off that bridge.
I don’t recall bending my legs and pushing off at all, but I definitely jumped... The first split second that I was in the air I felt my body spasm and try to pull back, I think it was a reflex that was telling me ‘no, don’t do this, what the hell are you doing?!’, and then it was over and I was falling. I watched the valley pass me by upside down, and saw the river below getting closer and closer... and then came the bounce back up.
When I watched other people jump the bounce back up looked quite violent, their bodies were jerked at strange angles and the warning of ‘retina displacement’ was fresh in my mind... but I didn’t feel it at all. The most amazing part of the whole experience was after the bounce when my body was free in the air, it feels like you’re flying (instead of plummeting headfirst to the earth) and it is the calmest and most peaceful I have ever felt in my life. A calm, peaceful bungee jump, a little bit contradictory I know, but that’s how it was for me!

Mossel Bay

Saturday 22^nd December, everyone is still alive. I am so surprised.
We Baz Bus to Mossel Bay and again meet up with the Polokwane girls and Gabriel at their backpackers. We have a lovely meal together and then hit the bar; Daisy and Ashley ask for free shots and get given something that is an absolute killer – this then leads to some hilarious events including cartwheels on the beach and unhappy beach wardens.

The next day we’re due to head to Cape Town! Baz Bus isn’t due until early evening so Ashley, Daisy, Sam and I decide to go sea kayaking. We’re doing doubles and Daisy and I are terrible; we can’t go in a straight line and we zigzag our way along the coast by heading directly to shore, then out to sea then back again towards the shore. I’m pretty sure we kayaked twice as far as Ashley and Sam, but we were about 40m behind them all the time! 
Then the inevitable happens... the Baz Bus is early. Normally it’s late, in fact it’s rarely ON TIME, but today it’s early. We’re fresh out of the sea and not even at our own backpackers! Luckily we packed that morning so the driver lets us jump on as he was stopping by our backpackers anyway and we manage to make it... just. We’re in swimming gear and wet, but we’re on the Bus and on our way to CAPE TOWN!

Thank you Baz Buz express service, we just caught you in time and now you’re on your way STRAIGHT to Cape Town... Baz Bus, I think you may have redeemed yourselves in my eyes just a little bit. Express service means that we get to Cape Town around 9:00pm instead of in the middle of the night and we meet some of the South African volunteers and go out on Longstreet!

It’s going to be a LEGEN-wait-for-it-DARY 10 days!

Kate xx

P.S. The title of this blog is a poster I saw at the Face Adrenalin bungee jump, rather motivational don’t you think?

“One five minutes, one five!”

Sadly it is time to leave the beautiful Amapondo backpackers in Port St. John’s and move on... I will surely miss the thick jungle and amazing views.
So it is back to the Shell Ultra City (a petrol station where we have been spending quite a lot of time due to the Baz Bus shuttles) and then we move on to Coffee Bay! We were all excited at the prospect of spending some time in Coffee Bay as it has had a great reputation among the past Project Trust volunteers, so we were about to find out for ourselves why it was so amazing.

Coffee Bay
We arrive and it is beautiful, it is a tiny little place with a couple of beaches and hills that you have to wade to across a rivers’ mouth to reach, and the landscape is pretty much untouched. We had a walk to the ‘main part’ of the town which is home to; two backpackers (Coffee Shack and Bomvu), Kaleidoscope Kafe (a little hippy shop and cafe, who also sell the most amazing homemade passion fruit ice-cream!), a pizza place on the top of a ridiculous hill, an Indian run family store (who have all of their products behind what looks like prison wire, so they’re clearly conscientious about safety) and... well, that’s pretty much it.
I’m lying, that’s almost it; I’ve nearly forgotten about the jewellery ladies! As you hop across stepping stones over a little river to reach this area the grass banks are lined with ladies sat on blankets selling their handmade jewellery. Unlike stall owners in Swaziland these ladies don’t sit quietly and hope you will buy something...
As we passed by what must have been 15 stalls all selling the same thing we had 15 ladies all introducing themselves to us, telling us we must buy from them and saying that we must remember them and come again tomorrow. I smiled apologetically and said that I had no money and carried on walking, Ashley however stopped to have a look at one stall and that was the end of her. As soon as she was stationary all the ladies grabbed pieces of jewellery, sprinted from their stalls and threw themselves onto Ashley; within seconds she was laden with necklaces, bracelets and anklets, and she was surrounded by women so desperate to sell that their approaches to customers were more intimidating than friendly. In the end she paid for pretty much everything that had been attached to her body as it was the only logical option for escape!
This happened to us every time we walked past, which was a few times a day. I took on the inspiring motto of “if you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball” and zigzagged my way through the danger zone with my reflective aviators on so that no one could catch my eye.  

Arriving, it's a tad cold, but the weather will soon pick up!

Our accommodation at Sugar Loaf backpackers! Finally I get to stay in an African hut!

 Tuesday morning starts with disaster, we booked a surf lesson for 7:30 in the morning and set an alarm so that we could get up and walk to Coffee Shack in enough time. Unluckily for us Ashley’s alarm decides to not go off and we get a call from the backpackers at 7:20 asking where we are and the answer is in bed. We all jump up that second (it is the quickest we have ever moved on a morning), throw on some clothes, grab our swimming gear and run to Coffee Shack which is about a 10 minute walk away. At 7:25 in the morning you do not want to be running for your life in flip flops on a dirt track wearing nothing but a bikini and a top. We made the surf lesson though and it was pretty fun! The water in Coffee Bay is as warm as a bath because it is the Indian Ocean, lovely.

We spend the day sunbathing and swimming on the beach and then head off for some pizza and ice-cream, I love holidays. 

Nothing says "Welcome to Africa" quite like cows on the beach...

Me not having a poo on Coffee Bay beach, just unfortunate timing!

Mmmm! Sun sea and sand <3

That night we decide to get in touch with some African culture and we head to Bomvu backpackers for the free drum lessons around the campfire! Considering I am the most unmusical person in the world I really enjoyed the drum circle, the guy lead us with some simple beats and we just copied him, when there’s about 20 people all playing in time on the dijembe drums it sounds quite impressive (even for a bunch of amateurs).

Dijembe Drums

Looking sunburned and sweaty, sums up my time perfectly really!

 The next day is hell, Ashley and I contracted third degree burns from the beach (the boys weren’t as bad), but none of us can move very far. My lips have blistered (which has never happened before in my life, and I’m very familiar with sunburn) and my face is so red and shiny I look like a prematurely born baby. Ashley looks like she has skin disease because she sun-creamed in patches before getting bored and presumably giving up. We took advantage of the aloe-vera plants growing in pots around the backpackers and cut off big leaves to take to the bathroom, there we spent half an hour covering ourselves in think, green sticky (but amazingly cooling) goo.

East London
LANDAN BABY! We head off to East London from Coffee Bay, and on the way back to our favourite petrol station (Shell Ultra City) we pass buy Nelson Mandela’s house and old village! WE SEE HIS REAL HOUSE, WHERE HE LIVES! And just like the Queen when he is home a flag flies from the rooftop, but when we passed there was no flag, because he is in hospital.

The Big Man's house.

We bump into the Polokwane girls at the Shell Ultra City; they’re getting off the Baz Bus to head to Coffee Bay. It’s so strange seeing them again after all this time, they visited us within our first 3 or 4 weeks into our stay in Swaziland, but when I see them again it doesn’t even feel like we’ve been apart for very long!

Our stay in East London was quite a long one, so we took advantage of the time and fitted in some activities. We went sand boarding on our first full day; sand boarding for those who don’t know is basically snowboarding on a sand dune. What we didn’t think about when we booked it was that in order to sand board DOWN the dune, you had to climb up it first. Unlike snowboarding there aren’t any lifts to the top; so in 30 degree heat and bare foot on scolding hot sand we were jogging up this sand dune, carrying our boards and struggling against the constant sand avalanches which hindered our progress.
Physical exhaustion (and embarrassment about how unfit I have become) aside I had a great time! Ashley, the Sam’s and myself bit the dust, literally, many times but before the end of our 2 hour lesson we all managed to make one full run down to the bottom! Sam Rutherford was so hardcore by the end he managed to snap his board in half, good effort my friend.

The next day we set off for a family friendly animal park; not the normal choice of destination for a group of 18 year olds but there was one good reason we were heading there... lion cubs. Need I say more?
For 30 rand (£2.15) you had access to view all the animals at the park (tigers, lions, crocodiles, cheetahs, rabbits and some of the biggest tortoises you will ever lay eyes on), and the opportunity to play with lion cubs! Money well spent.
It was a pretty funny day; I managed to electrocute myself on the cheetah enclosure (which is also on video because Sam permanently has his camera on to document everything that happens) and we found a llama that looked exactly like Ruth (a woman who worked at Kaleidoscope Kafe in Coffee Bay). Therefore we entertained ourselves for a good 30 minutes doing voice-overs to the llamas in a posh Johannesburg accent; it was almost like Ruth was with us.   

Howzit Ruth?

It's not everyday you get mauled my a Lion Cub :D

So, that’s it for this week! I’ve seen some more beautiful places and I’m definitely catching the travelling bug. 

Kate xx

P.S. The title of this post is dedicated to the one and only Petros, the best Baz Bus driver South Africa has to offer.

Petros: “Ok guys, we have fifteen minute stop, yes? Everyone back here in one five minutes... one five, one five!”

We love Petros.

Sockpoi at Amapondo Backpackers

Next time I will be playing with FIREEE, trust me.